Bungalows and Balusters

Nevada County Barns, #1

Nevada County, Barn #1

Since I was a child, old barns have held a special fascination for me. If I had the talent to paint, I know they would be one of my favorite subjects. These days, historic barns are disappearing at an alarming rate from our landscape. One of my projects is to inventory what is left in Nevada and El Dorado Counties. 

This particular barn is a classic beauty. My friend Dana Supernowicz has done extensive research on historic barns in California. Since information is challenging to find on West Coast barns, I asked him about identifying architectural styles. This one is a variation of Transverse Crib style barns, which is the most common type in California. Estimated to have been constructed sometime from 1900-1920s. 

Alpha Building, Nevada City

 

If you have an affinity for historic buildings and towns, then hurry to pay your last respects to the historic Alpha Building, as it appears today, located at 210 Broad Street in Nevada City.  The Alpha Building is a contributing historic resource to the downtown historic district which is listed on the National Register as well as the California Register of Historical Resources. Constructed in 1917, the building was substantially damaged by fire in 1928.

 

Nevada City, 1932 (http://www.mtfa.com)

 

Alpha Building, September 2013

 According to an article in The Union, September 16, the building’s owner and subsequently, contractor, Gary Tintle, will commence the reincarnation on September 28th. While the majority of the work will be to the interior, per staff reports from Nevada City, the exterior changes include: 

            Eastern Elevation (Union Street, adjacent to Calanan Park)

• New storefront doorway/entrance onto Calanan Park
• A new concrete landing from building entering onto Calanan Park
• A corrugated metal roof canopy over new doorway

South Elevation (Broad Street)

• replacement of windows with like-for-like materials
• Replacement of existing storefront doors
• Replace marble with matching marble
• Color change of building (light green body, off-white trim, dark brown and beige accent

Interestingly, The Union article mentioned another exterior change, quoting Mr. Tintle; “We’ll also redo the exterior appearance with a brick veneer”.  This was not listed on the application for architectural review.

There will be other exterior changes, but since they are to the rear of the building, they obviously have less impact on maintaining the continuity of the historic buildings as viewed from Broad Street, the main thoroughfare in Nevada City.

All these proposed changes to the building had to go through the City’s Advisory Review Committee and Planning Commission as well as an environmental review process for listed historic resources known as CEQA.  Per the staff report for the Planning Commission dated August 2, 2012, the Advisory Review Committee found;

The project is also consistent with the Nevada City Municipal Code Section 15.12.010 (Building Alteration and Renovation) which provides standards for alterations of buildings in the Historic District which states the original qualities or character of a building, structure or site shall not be destroyed; this project will not degrade the existing visual character or quality of the site or its surrounds as the Alpha Building will largely remain as it currently exists and with the matching of the existing architectural elements of the building.

This finding is in direct conflict with the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for Rehabilitation which is the standard “law of the land” per the National Park Service and the historic preservation field.

• Rule #1 is “Repair rather than replace”.  As the photo illustrates, with the exception of one window, the windows are intact and only suffering from peeling paint. They could be re-glazed, sanded and restored for a fraction of the cost of new ones and thus preserve the historic fabric. This relates to……
• Rule #2 for preservation of historic resources. Retain as much historic fabric as possible.  The added bonus of following this advice is that it is akin to recycling and thus, the landfill is not acquiring more trash. In a town like Nevada City that is always touting the advantages of being “Green” and promoting conscientiousness towards the environment, this certainly seems like hypocrisy.  The staff reports from the city and the application state that the windows will be replaced “in kind”, but there are no details. As identified in the historic photo above, the windows are over 70 years old and a significant identifying architectural feature.

Retaining the historic fabric and the overall architectural integrity should also be applied to the proposed third entrance that will be added to the Eastern Elevation, allowing direct access from Calanan Park. This is completely unnecessary. Two entrances are not enough? This is not San Francisco. Again, compromising the historic integrity of the building and with such an undertaking, the structural integrity as well.

Eastern Elevation

The brick veneer that will be added to the façade is egregious. Again, the building always displayed a flat masonry façade. Adding the brick is creating something that is not historic and will alter the entire look of the Alpha Building. This is also a permanent change.

Ultimately, the Alpha Building will be transformed-regarding the interior and bringing in new tenants, that is fantastic. However, transforming the exterior into what is ultimately going to look like a new building, is wrong and on the part of the City, they have been remiss in not protecting this historic resource. The property owner cannot be held responsible-it is the job of the Planning Department and Advisory Review Committee to uphold and apply the standards and guidelines.

For further information, you can read the National Register Nomination Form Download Nat Register form_NC, Nevada City Municipal Code http://library.municode.com/index.aspx?clientId=16305 , Staff Report for the Advisory Review Committee Download Alpha_AdvRevComm_staffreport2012, and the Planning Commission Staff Report for the project, Download Alpha_PlanningCommission_staffreport2012 .

Grass Valley Architecture, #1

 

The City of Grass Valley has a historic resource inventory completed of the buildings within the original 1872 Townsite. However, the Townsite does not encompass all the historic neighborhoods and architecture found within the City limits. With this post begins a series of highlighted historic architecture not only throughout Grass Valley but all of Nevada County.

 This is my favorite house in one of Grass Valley's beautiful neighborhoods. A handful of houses in this neighborhood date to the 1930s-40s, and there is just an interesting variety of architectural styles. I feel this one is the most unique, due of course to the fact that the house has retained its integrity and architectual detail. Mediterranean Revival is the closest architectural style that the house relates too, but it is really an eclectic take overall.  For one, the hipped pyramidal roof is not usually one of the defining aspects of that style. A small detached garage, original as identified by the footprint and size, mirrors the same roof style. It seems possible that at one time the roof may have been tile as that is the most common roofing material associated with the Mediterranean Revival style. The bay window on the facade is also unusual and not identified with the style.

Details indicative of Mediterranean Revival include:

• Stucco exterior
• Rounded porch entry
• Metal porch light detail
• 6-over-6 double hung windows
• Vertical wood plank shutters (decorative)

 

 

The glass block detail on the brick wall at the entry is an attractive architectural feature that draws the eye to the rounded entry. Glass block came into use as an architectural material at the turn of the 20th century. Its use was common throughout the 20s and 30s. Also of note is the unique porch light which appears to have a decorative metal cage and nice green patina.

 

Though difficult to ascertain, the windows are the original double-hung 6-over-6 lights. The obscuring dark coverings appear to be a type of storm window or shade covering.

A cottage that makes you smile when you walk by. What more can you ask for?

Polk's Legacy

Hallidie Building, 130 Sutter Street, San Francisco             Photo: vision63 http://www.flickr.com/photos/v63/134626520/

 

In April, after a two-year renovation, the Hallidie Building was unveiled, returned to its former splendor, in San Francisco’s financial district. Located at 130 Sutter Street, the Hallidie Building is #37 on the list of City landmark buildings. Completed in 1917/1918, the architect was none other than Willis Jefferson Polk, better known locally as the architect of the Bourn Cottage at Empire Mine. What designates the Hallidie Building from the fifty-seven other buildings Polk designed in California, is the glass curtain wall façade, the first ever constructed in the United States. The following link has some interesting photos of the renovation. http://www.sfgate.com/news/slideshow/The-renovated-Hallidie-Building-61204/photo-4537917.php

Polk’s architectural visions were developed without the benefit of any formal education. Working for numerous architects across the U.S., Polk learned his trade through the tradition of hands-on experience.  Twice during his lifetime, Polk, his brother Daniel, a draftsman and his father, a carpenter/contractor worked together in their own firm, first in Kansas City and later in San Francisco. Eschewing Victorian architectural elements of the time period, Polk incorporated details in his designs from the Renaissance style, Beaux Arts and others. Along with his friend Bernard Maybeck, he was a major contributor to the Arts & Crafts movement in California architecture.

A real character, Polk was known for his harsh opinions on the works of other architects as well as any cause he championed. Thus, he created additional challenges in his work for himself after gaining a reputation for being difficult.  One incident cited was as follows:

"During the construction of the Hobart Building at 582 Market (1914, San Francisco Landmark #162) he mounted a protest while perched on a steel girder ten stories up after a City building inspector tried to have the work stopped. Polk had decided that lath and plaster fireproofing of the structural steel in the building was better than the concrete soffit called for by the building code of the day. Polk won his case, but not before taking on and antagonizing the City Hall hierarchy all the way up to Mayor Rolph.”  http://www.sfhistoryencyclopedia.com/articles/p/polkWillis.html

After being connected to William Bourn ll, the President of Spring Valley Water Company, Polk’s place in California architectural history was sealed. In addition to his masterpiece estate Filoli in Woodside, Polk also designed a house for the Bourn’s in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, one at their vineyard Madrono in St. Helena and of course, the Bourn Cottage at Empire Mine.

 

 

Bourn Cottage, Empire Mine, Grass Valley. http://www.flickr.com/photos/vtveen/6731978093/

Another notable job that Polk commanded, was that of supervising architect for the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. Interestingly, he was to design the Palace of Fine Arts building (one of the few remaining structures today). Instead, Polk presented to the deciding committee, sketches by his friend and fellow architect Bernard Maybeck. Thus, Maybeck’s design was implemented and history made. One cannot help but wonder what Polk’s conceptualization for the building would have been.

Polk died in 1924 at the age of 57, leaving an architectural legacy that is amazing, given his short life span and lack of formal education. His impact on California's architectural canon cannot be summarized in a short blog entry, but it is important to acknowledge what an honor it is to have one of Polk's designs in our own backyard.

 

Polk’s Russian Hill designs: http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Polk-s-own-peak-on-Russian-Hill-3285288.php#photo-2434235

Extensive catalog with photos, of Polk’s designs: http://www.verlang.com/sfbay0004ref_slideshow_wp_sf_00.html

Our Love Affair with the Past

 

Why do we fall in love with the past? It is more than the gingerbread trim on a stately Victorian, or an ornate rod iron fence. It does not end there. It is why we wait, counting the months, for the annual installment of PBS’s “Downton Abbey”. Or spend hours browsing antique shops.

Why do we yearn to be transported? 

Yes, stating the obvious, there is that conviction, right or wrong (that debate could stretch for months), that life were simpler and more innocent then and thus more attractive to us in these modern, unsettled times. Or perhaps it is just the clothes and the cars. I would live in any decade pre-dating 1960 just to wear the hats. Or ride in the rumble seat of a beautiful vintage car.

  _{Builders Hardware and Tools Catalogue, 1926}

When it comes to architecture, if we are drawn to it, we all favor certain styles above others. Is it the distinctive squared porch supports of a Craftsman, or the oversized windows and easy open floor plan of a Ranch style that makes you smile and dream of living there? Do doors or windows catch your eye first? Would you leap at the chance to see the interior? Maybe it is something as simple as the ornate door knobs and decorative hinges that get you. Perhaps it is the fantasy of the past that we create, which directs our reaction to historic houses; we subconsciously believe that the people residing there must somehow be happier. It represents an idyllic existence to some extent because it is a tangible link to the past. The well-worn “if these walls could talk” philosophy.

 _{Modern Hardware for Your Home, 1925}

Personally, it is all of the above and more. I can find something attractive in all architectural styles. The nuances of any historic home thrill me-the quality, creativity and detail are absent from new construction. Again, these are the reasons it is important to preserve our architectural heritage. Once it is gone, it cannot be replaced. Old buildings are like old friends, you want to embrace them and keep them in your presence as long as possible.

  _{Vintage light fixture, 1930s}

Living in Nevada County, many people make financial sacrifices in exchanging rural life for the opportunities of an urban metropolis. If you asked a random number of them why they are drawn to living here, it is certain that some would cite the history and/or the number of beautiful historic houses. An interesting question to pose would be, years later, would they say it is still worth it, or has the cost been too high? Was the dream entirely different than the reality? Is it possible to fall out of love with the past?

 

Nevada County's Most Endangered Historic Places-Part 2

 This is the second part to the April 22nd post on Nevada County's Most Endangered Historic Places.

              1. Entire Grass Valley 1872 Townsite Historic Resource Inventory  

           2. NCNGRR Station Wall and Staircase-Bennett St., Grass Valley

           3. Historic Downtown Grass Valley, Commercial Buildings

4. Historic Windows

5. St. Joseph’s Cultural Center, Grass Valley

6. Historic Fences

7. Historic Cemeteries

8. Nevada County Courthouse, Nevada City

9. Loma Rica Ranch, Grass Valley      

 

                                                                          

 5. St. Joseph's Cultural Center, Grass Valley

     Significance: From their website:

          “St. Joseph's Chapel was built on the site of the Henry Scadden cottage, which has served as a residence for priests, then as home for small orphan boys, and finally as the Sister's Chapel. The Chapel took from May of 1894 until December 1894 to build. It was truly and incredible feat considering its size; 90 feet long, by 40 feet wide and 36 feet high, with its beautiful pressed tin interior.  In 1894, Myles P. O'Connor presented a large, colorful, stained glass window to the Sisters of Mercy, to be placed in the newly completed St. Joseph's Chapel. Judge O'Connor was the father of Bridget Frances O'Connor, who had entered the Sisters of Mercy community in 1891 as Sister Mary Genevieve.” 

Languishing for years in need of repairs and restoration, the Historic Mt. St. Mary’s Preservation Committee has worked hard in securing funding to preserve this beautiful and important building. St. Joseph’s does not seem to receive enough support from the community in this respect, which is surprising given it serves us all in the programs and entertainment offered there. I wonder what they could have done with the approximately $70,000 that our community raised for the mural on the Del Oro?

Threat: Deterioration

 

6. Historic Fences

    Significance: In Chapter 7, page 104 of the City of Grass Valley’s Historic Design Review Guidelines, it states;

The benefits from a well maintained landscape are many, including improved “curb appeal" and retaining neighborhood continuity. Mature street trees, lawn trees, side-yard trees, or features, such as front yard fences or rock walls, should be identified, protected, and maintained. Property owners should make an effort to ensure that their
landscape design and maintenance is in keeping with the historical period of the property.

Many of these historic fences in the Gold Country date to the turn of the 20th century through the 1930s. Due simply to a lack of knowledge and/or appreciation for these fences, they are often replaced or left damaged and suffering from deferred maintenance.

   Threat: Deterioration, Removal

 

7. Historic Cemeteries

    Significance: Nevada County has numerous cemeteries dating to the Gold Rush. These places of reverence contain tangible links to our past-not only to our genealogy, but the ethnic, religious and business history of the area. Often monuments were make locally, and some of the stone was quarried in Nevada and El Dorado Counties. Many grave markers and monuments contain details about the deceased which are invaluable to researchers. Unfortunately, our historic cemeteries are increasingly providing another visual, that of irreparably damaged grave markers and plots by vandalism, theft of monuments and fences and lack of maintenance. Time is running out to save these special places.

  Threat: Vandalism, deterioration, lack of maintenance, incorrect maintenance techniques.

 

8. Nevada County Courthouse

    Significance: Per the courts website, the courthouse was constructed in 1864 with substantial remodels in 1900 and 1937.  The highly unattractive and unsympathetic styled annex was added in 1964. Viewing photographs of the original Italian Renaissance style architecture, the current Art Deco inspired interpretation makes it almost impossible to believe the it is the same building underneath. An anchor to historic downtown Nevada City, the courthouse stands as a representation of how historic towns functioned as an integrated whole from their beginnings. Relocating the courthouse to an area outside of town will not only affect local business revenues but it will also alter a way of life and interaction. One of the options pursued by the Administrative Office of the Courts (AOC), was a rehabilitation of the existing courthouse which appears to have basically called for its demolition as it has been deemed unsuitable in layout and size for the modern set-ups of courthouses in regard to handling inmates and securing the public's safety. However, in October last year (2012), the AOC declared a stop to the courthouse project. "The Judicial Coucil accepted recommendations from its Court Facilities Working Group to indefinitely delay seven new courthouse projects due to ongoing state budget cuts." Hopefully this reprieve will buy the historic courthouse some more years of life and that this time-out will necessitate more dialog and reasonable more practical solutions to demoltion and an entirely new facility outside of town. It is difficult to believe that in the 21st century with all of our engineering capabilities, building products and innovation, that we can stand back and say it is impossible to rehabilitate the courthouse to meet modern standards.

   Threat: Demolition, Removal of courthouse functions to location outside historic downtown Nevada City

9. Loma Rica Ranch, Grass Valley

    Significance: Based on information contained in Chapter 13/Cultural Resources, Grass Valley General Plan, 1998, Errol MacBoyle, owner of the Idaho-Maryland Mine, purchased Loma Rica Ranch and the Loma Rica Rancho in 1936. At the time of purchase, the "ranch house" was already constructed.                                          

              The house structure has been described as 'having stylistic qualities common to modest dwellings from the 1850s through the 1880s,possibly pre-dating Lopez' 1870 purchase, and a possible   connection with Henry McCarty (Haas1994; Terhorst 1994:12).MacBoyle desired to raise prize horses and began construction on the current Loma Rica RanchCenter, probably shortly after the 1936 purchase. The foundation contains the date '1/23/37'. No expense was spared to build a state-of-the-art facility. Included in the complex were foaling and stallion barns, exercise yards and rings, a laboratory, garage, shop, pump house and feed cribs (Terhorst 1994, Map 2). MacBoyle purchased brood mares and began breeding thoroughbreds, all the horses being given names beginning with "Gold". The ranch became a prominent estate in Grass Valley, MacBoyle reportedly hoping to create an estate comparable to Hearst's San Simeon (Janicot 1994: Terhorst 1994:1)

The historical significance is expanded when the connection is made to Charles Howard, famed for his racehorse Seabiscuit. In 1949, Howard purchased the thoroughbred, Noor, from the Aga Kahn. A champion horse with an amazing racing record, Noor set 3 world records in his lifetime and was inducted into the Racing Hall of Fame in 2002. The horse was retired to Loma Rica Ranch after Howard's death. When Noor passed away in 1974, he was buried on the infield of the racetrack. His remains were exhumed and removed to Kentucky in 2011 due the LRR development plans. Today, the magnificent barns still stand, as well as the "ranch house" and some other buildings. The two barns full of horse stalls are still viable, beautiful buildings and definitely warrant preservation and rehabilitation. Unfortunately, once again another local historic resource stands deteriorating from deferred maintenance and lack of, at the minimal, some stabilizing preservation. It could be another decade before the vision of the LRR development comes to fruition.

Threat: Deterioration, Demolition by neglect

 

 

 

 

Nevada County’s Most Endangered Historic Places

  

Every year since 1988,  the National Trust for Historic Preservation has nominated historic properties for their well-known “America’s 11 Most Endangered Historic Places” list.  The Trust’s commitment to making the public aware of these threatened pieces of our history has resulted in overwhelming success for saving the majority of these resources. Included in their “saved” list is Independence National Park, the WTC Vesey Street Staircase and Angel Island Immigration Station. http://www.preservationnation.org/issues/11-most-endangered/NTHP

Like any county in America, rural or urban, Nevada County has its own list of endangered places. I suggest we start here and now, and make 2013 the beginning of a newly focused appreciation for our local historic resources. Please assist me in adding to this list by sending along your suggestions.  Due to the length of the list and details, this post will be split into two parts; listings 1-4 in this post and 5-9 in the next one.

 

             1. Entire Grass Valley 1872 Townsite Historic Resource Inventory

             2. NCNGRR Station Wall and Staircase-Bennett St., Grass Valley

             3.  Historic Downtown Grass Valley, Commercial Buildings

4. Historic Windows

5. St. Joseph’s Cultural Center, Grass Valley

6. Historic Fences

7. Historic Cemeteries

8. Nevada County Courthouse, Nevada City

9. Loma Rica Ranch, Grass Valley                                                                                       

 

The Details:

                    

1. Entire Grass Valley 1872 Townsite Historic Resource Inventory

    Significance: In 2009-2010, a historic resource inventory was completed for the original 1872 townsite. This inventory includes 1100 residential buildings as well as the historic downtown. A state certified form was completed for each building with detailed architectural notes and photographs. Based on a buildings’ architectural significance, retention of historic fabric and historic integrity, it was given a tier rating of 1-4, with 1's and 2's being identified as the most valuable; meaning they retain a high percentage of the historic fabric and architectural significance. Despite the Preservation Ordinance that was passed by City Council in September 2012, it was a weakened version with no enforcement provisions or penalties for non-compliance. Basically, there is still no protection for our historic resources in Grass Valley.

   Threat: Deterioration, unsympathetic material replacement and additions, poor public policy.  

2. NCNGRR Station Wall and Staircase

  Significance: One of the last remaining physical connections to the Nevada County Narrow Gauge Railroad. Also located on the property  where the Grass Valley station and the Kidder Mansion once stood.

  Threat: Deterioration and a proposed subdivision.

3. Historic Downtown Grass Valley, Commercial Buildings

   Significance: Historic Downtown is comprised of buildings dating from the 1850s to the 1940s, as identified in the historic resource inventory as well as the City of Grass Valley’s Design Review Guidelines. Despite the Design Review Guidelines that specifically define and illustrate the important architectural features that should be retained on these buildings, close inspection will betray how increasingly these exact features are being removed and/or replaced or repaired inappropriately. For example, many shop spaces have removed the interior wall coverings to expose the brick. This not only weakens the building structurally, but leads to many other issues. The brickwork was never meant to be exposed. Another example would be exterior material replacement that is not sympathetic to the historic building or the context of the entire downtown.         

   Threat: Incorrect rehabilitations, lack of maintenance, poor public policy.                                                      

 
Historic wood windows retained

Vinyl replacement windows

4. Historic Windows

    Significance: Windows add definition to the façade of a historic home and assist us in determining the architectural style and construction date. When these windows are replaced by modern vinyl or aluminum models, the syncopation is disrupted and the historic fabric is permanently altered. Due to the misleading claims of vinyl window manufacturers regarding energy efficiency, homeowners have been removing their historic windows at an alarming rate. Studies by the National Trust and many other agencies have confirmed that historic windows, with regular maintenance, and the auxiliary use of storm windows, can be as energy efficient as new windows. Additionally, those thousands of historic windows go to the landfill which is exactly where the pricey vinyl windows will end up in 10-15 years. Concern about the environment means you repair rather than replace.      

    Threat:  Removal, deterioration, unsympathetic replacement.

Another Gold Rush

 

“Nevada City and Grass Valley are two of the best preserved towns from the Gold Rush”

                -Melissa Nelson Brown, director, San Francisco Tour Guide Guild

“Heritage visitors spend more per day, stay longer and visit more places than tourists in general".              

              -Donald Rypkema, The Economics of Historic Preservation: A Community Leader’s Guide

 
_{Historic Downtown Grass Valley, Mill Street}

Last week The Union ran two stories regarding a twenty-four hour visit to our area by the San Francisco Tour Guide Guild. The goal was to highlight our county’s historic resources as attractions for their clientele.  Grass Valley and Nevada City were the focus, with the hope that the guild would promote our cities in future tours. Obviously, this would generate more revenue and positive PR for local heritage tourism.  The articles can be found here: http://www.theunion.com/news/localnews/5734283-113/nevada-tour-county-visit and http://www.theunion.com/news/localnews/5758106-113/nevada-county-tour-valley.

_{National Register Listing. Mount St. Mary's Academy and Convent, Grass Valley}

Did you know there are twenty-four National Register listings in Nevada County? Thirteen of those are located in Grass Valley and Nevada City.

When we choose to visit historic towns and sites as part of our leisure time, it falls under the moniker of Heritage Tourism.  A serious economic force, the statistics regarding the monetary rewards of this preservation inspired travel, prove without a doubt that a sense of place matters. Thus, as 2 +2=4, preservation is one of the best investments a city can make as far as returns are calculated.

Donald Rypkema, a well-known economist and principal of Place Economics in Washington, D.C., (www.placeeconomics.com) states that;

                       “Economic impact is generally measured in three ways: jobs created, increase in   household income and demand created on other industries. Very few of the 500 or so categories of economic activity have as potent a local impact, balanced among these three criteria, as does the rehabilitation of historic buildings. “

Simply stated.  And what is there to debate or question? Why are city councils and planning commissions routinely adverse to accepting this rationale and the statistics to back it up? The disconnect between preservation and economics is amazing and consistently replayed in Grass Valley.

National Register Listing. Nevada City Brewery.

Heritage tourism involves the sense of place that is created out of the historic architecture, historic sites, landscape and even historic lodging. A small town has an added advantage; it invokes that Norman Rockwell feeling of “home”, the “all-American” ideal of a community where the mailman knows your dog’s name and you can walk the streets in safety, greeting your friends as you stroll the charming and idyllic neighborhoods. An exaggeration?  In a sense. But for someone visiting from a metropolitan area, that is how our small Gold Country towns come across to them.

Living here, it is easy to forget how picture postcard perfect our towns are to visitors. It is easy to take it all for granted and assume it will always look so perfect.

This is where the concept and application of preservation comes into play. Historic buildings and sites do not just remain static and beautiful without effort. Plans have to be put into place to maintain, protect and keep them viable. Preservation is not about remaining stuck in the 1880s. It is about integrating the past and present by valuing our historic resources and keeping the story of where we came from, alive. Our architectural heritage is one of the most important physical/visible links to our past.

In summary, once again it comes down to the fact that it IS necessary to have a preservation ordinance. A successful one serves to protect our architectural heritage. It does not take many years for historic buildings to deteriorate due to lack of maintenance or poor renovation choices. Awareness, knowledge and some oversight is what is required to sustain heritage tourism and keep the visitors returning for more.

 

 

The Grand Dame of California Architecture

In honor of International Women’s Day, I am dedicating this entry to Julia Morgan (1872-1957), the first licensed female architect in California and a pioneer in her field as well as the advancement of women in the workplace.  Morgan’s other notable firsts include: 

-First woman to be admitted and graduate from the renowned Ecole des Beaux-Arts, School of Architecture in Paris, France

-First woman graduate from UC Berkeley with a degree in Civil Engineering

-An integral part of the Arts and Crafts architectural design influence which included Bernard Maybeck and the Greene Brothers.

According to the remarkable biography by Sara Boutelle, Julia Morgan was one of five children, born in San Francisco to affluent parents transplanted from the East Coast. She pursued her education and career goals with steadfast diligence and commitment as would later be exhibited in all her architectural commissions. Known for her strict work ethic, Morgan’s attention to detail and craftsmanship was incomparable especially if we hold it to the standards we employ in today’s interpretation of those facets of design. 

As a side note, repeating the common thread in historic preservation, many of Morgan’s designs have been demolished through the years.

Interestingly, as a complete contrast to her creative (and in relation to Hearst’s commissions, fantastical creations), Morgan lived simply and without fanfare. Little is known about her private life. A few facts include that she cared for an ailing brother and never married. She died a recluse, having closed her practice and in turn, requested her building supervisor to burn her drawings and correspondence.

_{Northstar House, Grass Valley (photo, G. Waldsmith)}

Most people are probably aware that Nevada County is home to one of Morgan’s treasured architectural gems, the North Star House. located in Grass Valley. She is credited with the design of over 700 buildings in her career, not all of them in California. A staggering number for a lifetime of work and I would imagine, in excess of most architects from her era. Of course Morgan is most famous for her association with William Randolph Hearst and the twenty-eight years she dedicated to designing his castle. A second lesser known creation she participated in designing for him was called Wyntoon  and is located near Dunsmuir, on the McCloud River. Somewhat shrouded in mystery as the estate is not open to the public, if one is daring enough to endure the rapids, it can be viewed from the river in a kayak!  I found an interesting short article written by a woman who spent time there as a child, her parents being employed by Hearst. http://enjoymagazine.net/articles-1/the-little-girl-who-grew-up-at-wyntoon

_{Wyntoon, Dunsmuir}

In reference to my last post on Carnegie Libraries, Morgan designed the Carnegie Library on the Mills College Campus in Oakland, which still stands.

_{Carnegie Library, Mills College}

Locally, in addition to the North Star House, lesser known is that Morgan also designed what is now the President’s Mansion on the campus of CSU, Chico. No longer a residence, it is rented out by the university for functions. CSU, Sacramento had a similar arrangement with a Morgan designed house that was bequeathed to the university by Charles Goethe. However in 2011 the house was sold due to funding issues.

_{President's Mansion, CSU, Chico}

Goethe House, Sacramento

 

Back to the North Star House here in Grass Valley. One of the projects for my Master's was a rehabilitation plan for the North Star House so I was fortunate to research and study it in depth. This was Morgan’s first residential commission and constructed in 1905 for A.D. Foote, supervisor for the North Star Mine. Mary Hallock Foote, his wife, was an illustrator and writer. The house remained in the family until 1968 when it was sold to a religious organization to be used as a school. Eventually vacated, the house was left to vandals and the elements for twenty years. Since 2003 it has been owned and managed by the North Star Historic Conservancy http://northstarconservancy.org/  and www.facebook.com/TheNorthStarHouse .

Due to their incredible dedication and mission along with the leadership of Peggy Levine and an army of volunteers, Morgan’s design is being resuscitated into a multi-use facility. Preservation is being addressed in stages, with significant gains already accomplished. In 2011 listing was approved for the National Register which may assist in acquiring some grants in the future.  

Julia Morgan will retain her place in history as a pioneering woman in her field, an innovative architect capable of designing in a wide range of styles, always committed to perfection and the details of her craft rather than achieving notoriety. I wonder what she would think, if she knew how studied her works have become to students and fans of historic architecture. How cool that she once walked the streets of Grass Valley and left an indelible mark on our local history with a castle we can call our own.

If you are interested in reading more about other women in the history of architecture, here is an interesting article about the forgotten and overlooked contributions of female architects. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/08/the-10-most-overlooked-women-in-architecture_n_2836782.html?ncid=edlinkusaolp00000003

Mr. Carnegie's Gifts

_{Grass Valley  Public Library}

 

It's a long lost cause I can never win
For the civilized world accepts as unforgivable sin
Any talking out loud with any librarian
Such as Marian.....Madam Librarian.

                              -Lyrics from The Music Man, written by Meredith Wilson

As children, many of us spent countless happy hours at the local library, choosing books and listening to storytellers. It was an outing, to visit the library and find new treasures bundled in foggy, crinkled, plastic covers, perhaps a bit musty, or if you were really lucky, only checked out a few times. I still feel it is a privilege. There is something reverent about it. Andrew Carnegie, the steel magnate and Scottish immigrant, was responsible for making many of these monuments to knowledge part of communities across our country. According to the National Park Service, in his lifetime Carnegie donated over four million dollars for the libraries. http://www.nps.gov/nr/twhp/wwwlps/lessons/50carnegie/50carnegie.htm

By providing free access to books for the lower and middle classes, Carnegie fulfilled his role as philanthropist. Thanks to his contributions, Carnegie was responsible for the construction of 1,679 libraries in the U.S.  In California alone, there were 144 gifted to major cities and smaller communities such as Grass Valley and Nevada City. (http://www.carnegie-libraries.org/)  Notable, given that Nevada County is a rural area, is that within a five-mile radius, we have two of these grand libraries! The only other location in the entire Gold Country, is Auburn and the building now serves as a community center.

Doris Foley Historical Research Library, Nevada City

Imposing and formidable, the Richardsonian Romanesque building located at 211 North Pine Street in Nevada City, now houses the Doris Foley Historical Research Library. As noted in a previous post, this building was the subject of a HABS (Historic American Building Survey) project I completed for my Master’s degree.  While Grass Valley’s library is beautiful, Nevada City’s interior is much richer in detail, one outstanding feature being the five sizable Composite order wood veneer columns in the main hall. Constructed in 1906, and opening in 1907, the library was designed by architect William H. Weeks and his brother, Hammond. Weeks designed twenty-one Carnegie Libraries in California. (G.Waldsmith, HABS Project,).

_{Wood veneer column, Doris Foley Library for Historical Research}

Grass Valley’s Royce Branch was designed by William Mooser II, in the Classical Revival style. Completed in 1916, the building made an impressive addition to downtown with its nine steps ascending to the front door and the numerous ionic pilasters ornamenting the façade. Another outstanding feature of this library are the beautiful original glass windows. Take note next time you walk by, as the wavy glass is easy to spot.

_{Grass Valley, Royce Branch, 207 Mill Street}

In California, fifty-six of the Carnegie Libraries have been demolished in just over a century. Unfortunately, this is another common story in the loss of our architectural heritage and it continues occuring in every state. Languishing in varied states of deterioration, sad social commentaries on the value that local governments and our elected officials put on our architectural history. I found this about the Carnegie Library in Camden, New Jersey. http://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/WM80C4_Camden_Free_Public_Library_Main_Building_Camden_NJ

Constructed in 1904, and listed on the National Register in the 1990s, after public outcry the building was saved. However it is now declining into the status of demolition by neglect, the once noble building now without a roof and many windows. What a waste! What is wrong with people to allow this, especially in an age when everyone has jumped on the recycling, “go green” bandwagon? Is there really that much of a disconnect? Not only is it disrespectful to those who contributed to it in the past, but it is ignorance present, when short-sightedness dictates that new is always better and more cost effective.

 Researching a Carnegie Library definitely gave me a new appreciation of our local landmarks. We are very fortunate to enjoy these buildings as they were meant to be-as libraries. An increasingly rare instance. Hats off to Nevada County (and its dedicated volunteers at the Doris Foley Library) for keeping both branches open and serving the local residents. The libraries are much loved and we are grateful.

I would enjoy readers sharing their childhood memories of the library. What did it mean to you? Did you grow-up in a city with a Carnegie Library? What do you think of their value, architecturally, to our built environment? Do they contribute to a sense of place?